Love Letters to Nopa and Western Addition
posted May 06, 2009 9:29AM
Ah, Nopa, you hotbed of hip: take cheap(ish) rent plus The Independent plus the neighborhood’s namesake restaurant, add in some good, divey bars and cheap eats and it’s become a mecca for the skinny-jean set.
Submit up to a 300-word “love letter” to Nopa and Western Addition in the comment box below. We'll publish the 10 best neighborhood letters in our upcoming Neighborhoods Issue and pick one to win Outside Lands tickets.
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buywatch posted 09:39 PM Oct. 17th
When I started at USF and moved into the NOPA, I fell in love with the neighborhood for giving my formally WASPY suburban stature; a little sass and chupunza, some edge and undefined urban “je ne se qua”.
Or… was it the ability to stand on Victorian balcony ever year in costume to hose people down with a cocktail in hand, as they ran through the Panhandle for Bay-to-Breakers; or the close proximity to the DMV for dealing with parking tickets (paramount to City survival)…
I’ve pondered if it might be romantic and hip to name my first born “Five Fulton,” because of the bus line alliteration and associated warm fuzzies I got from a five minute, stress-free, one dollar weekend ride to Union Square. Unexpected hidden gems of people and places bewitch this “hood.” For example, I stopped once to inspect an antique dresser sitting outside a Victorian on a “large trash day.” The furniture was charming, but the real prize was the elderly black woman behind it who was cleaning out her father’s underground “speak easy.” He had recently passed away and while she dismantled things, she showed me photos of all the old, local neighborhood characters that used to haunt it during prohibition. The décor was so cool that the window dresser for the Diesel store would have flown into a jealous rage.
Sunday’s were a particularly poetic time in NOPA, as everyone woke to the sound of ecstatic gospel and skateboarding and with pangs of hunger from the smell of beef brisket, smoking outside in barrel grills since dawn and wafting through blocks of apartments and houses from B’s BBQ on Divisadero Street. Watching the ladies of the neighborhood click down the sidewalk in heels, hats and the most colorful of dresses and then dip into the numerous Baptist churches to bolt out songs that rivaled in skill with Aretha Franklin, made me feel like I was living in a Flannery O’Connor novel. I stumbled into the Church of John Coltrane (formerly on Divisadero), once out of curiosity and a love for jazz and had a guitar thrust in my hand at the entrance. I was instructed to jam for an hour with the other attendees (who were also assigned random musical instruments). I possess zero musical talent, but the creative joy of that experience will stand out in my life forever.
Additionally, nothing was better on a cold, crisp weekday evening than slipping out of the fog into the dark, locally painted, mural-lined Fly Bar, playing pool all night and whispering “sak-it-to-me” to my boyfriend after too many “saki-tini’s,” (Saki cocktails in martini glass to skirt the beer and wine license) and then walking down Divisadero, to catch an impromptu reggae show at The Independent. Nothing except reveling in the ultimate soul food hang-over cure and best dive breakfast in town the next morning at Eddie’s Restaurant. A weekend wait of twenty people was standard, but completely justified as it was featured in Thrasher Magazine not once, not twice, but THREE times! It was manned capably by the unofficial neighborhood hostess, a beautiful Asian woman of 45(ish), who knew how to “work” a booth with her winks and the jukebox with her hips and owned the hearts of all “the boys” in the neighborhood, regardless of age. Despite the old fashioned counter and vinyl booth setting she wore only wore Chanel-like skirt suits to work and had an uncanny ability for remembering everyone’s name in the neighborhood and specifically what they ordered.
Oh NOPA, my slightly cruel, but undeniably hip, big sister, thanks for spiking my milk, I love you!
kiki posted 10:01 PM Sep. 8th
Dear NOPA,
I'm writing to say I'm sorry and I miss you. I'm sorry I left you for the Upper Haight. I didn't know what I was doing. I'm sorry I broke all of my promises, like when I promised I would come back to visit often. I moved only 10 blocks away but I feel like we're worlds apart.
I still love you NOPA. I love your Farmer's Market every Sunday. I love your video store next to Abir; they always gave my dog a treat and let him behind the counter. I love you bars, your cafes and your restaurants. I love your side of the Panhandle and I love Alamo Square.
It looks like your moving on without me, what with CC Rider and that little restaurant that just opened next to Jake's. You're always growing and expanding, I get that now. You always had more to give and I took that for granted. The Upper Haight just has bong shop after bong shop, it's just so monotonous, nothing like you.
NOPA, I now know what I did was wrong, I left you too soon. But NOPA, Western Addition, Baby, I want to come back.
Love,
M
MSimpson posted 02:11 PM Aug. 26th
A love letter to NOPA Neighborhood
NOPA- aka North Panhandle – even by other names….
“Western Addition, the "Mo-Fil”, & "Lower Haight" even the more pretentious “Lower Pacific Heights”…...
Your true flavors can not be modified!
You reveal your altered states, perhaps...Transformed when your old painted ladies once were threatened by obnoxious urban re-development and were recklessly replaced by public housing and sixties cinderblock and aluminum. Thankfully you were rescued by avid "Victorian–Huggers" before your ultimate destruction was achieved!
NOPA:
Now A magnet for Urban Hipsters,
Hip-Hoppers & Aging Hippies
Home to: Happenings,Head Shops, Vintage Clothing Boutiques and once an incubation-location for Braindrops
& the current site for Mr. Natural Music School plus numerous Internet cafes, populated daily by pierced or tattooed Laptop-wielding Java-slurping Caffeine-junkies just hanging out.
I still recall my friend Loida’s praise refering to NOPA as a great “Doggie Neighborhood”.
Her “Marmaduke-doggie” loves it for sure.
“So close to the park, why not!?"...I ask.
-Cid Young
cid4houses posted 01:12 PM Aug. 10th
submit102 posted 10:56 PM Jul. 21st

Bop City Baby. My love affair with the Fillmore began at an early age. Growing up in San Francisco’s Fillmore district, the son of Jazz Trumpeter, F. Allen Smith, now referred to as a true jazz heritage pioneer, with playing credits that include touring with the great Benny Goodman, as well as returning to San Francisco to occupy first seat for Ella, Count, Quincy and many others.
Late night jam sessions, my bohemian mother and true “friend of jazz” – the organization she founded years later, would usually have me in tow at the infamous Jimbo Edwards “Bop City” jazz club and eatery, specializing in Waffles and Chicken wings. Some of my baby sitters at the club or elsewhere, Charlie Mingus, Vernon Alley, Pony Poindexter, Anita O’Day to name a few, were the elite of the jazz players frequenting the clubs that dotted the Fillmore district back in the golden era of jazz in this “Harlem of the West” jazz mecca.
Over the years I witnessed the destruction of the district by the efforts of Redevelopment Agency and the “Urban Removal” during the “revitalization” period in the western addition. Homes and businesses were leveled, and people moved on, either voluntarily or by “eminent domain”. Jazz took a back seat to other pressing urban issues of the day. But the music never died.
Ironically, years later my mom, Patricia Nacey worked for this same redevelopment agency, and was tasked with trying to determine the community’s interest in revitalizing the jazz preservation district. She would produce the Living Legends Concerts in the Westbay Conference Center, directly across the street from what is now the new Fillmore Heritage Center and home to Yoshi’s Jazz Club San Francisco, 1300 Restaurant and the Jazz Heritage Center, of which I am the Executive Director. Her efforts were the precursor to what is currently unfolding in the Fillmore. Her standing room only concerts indicated an overwhelming interest in keeping jazz alive and in the Fillmore. I mc’d these concerts and became vice – president of the organization that mom had founded during a late night chat with her jazz loving buddy, Supervisor Susie Bierman, called the friends of jazz.
Now I preserve the history of jazz, while presenting and promoting the future of jazz at the JHC. Our world class exhibits, art and memorabilia displays feature images
of the Fillmore’s “Harlem of the West” days. We also tell the stories and connect the dots of the national evolution and history of jazz with our current exhibit “JAM Session: America’s Jazz Ambassadors Embrace the World!” My love affair with the Fillmore allows me to tell the multi-cultural accomplishments and stories of all those who came before us. The Fillmore, a rich history and future indeed.
petefitzsimmons posted 05:39 PM Jun. 12th
Dear NoPa,
I am on a lonely road and I am traveling. Traveling. Traveling. Looking for something. Oh I saw you, on the 5 Fulton. Tight jeans, orange scarf.
Throw my ticket out the window. Throw my suitcase out there too.
Liquor store, yellow pack, the cashier smiled and called you his American spirit. Alive Alive. I want to wreck my stockings in some juke box dive. Do you want to dance with me baby?
Pouring rain and people into Papalote for soyrizo burritos. You pranced down Hayes street and I was right behind. Because all I really want our love to do is just bring out the best in me and in you to.
Homemade wooden benches outside MOJO café called to you so I sat in one of the tables for two. We all shared a cig. Because that’s how it is here. The bartender brought us two Big Daddys. Because that’s what they have on tap here. I should have left this town this morning. But it was more than I could do.
Down at the end of the street, the chairs outside Bean Bag Café were filling up. Because dollar fifty Stellas draws a crowd.
The line for the Independent was wrapping around the street. Because Monday night they played Macraframa, and tonight it is Bela Fleck, and tomorrow the kids will put one hand in the air for Tiga. Serving the neighborhood one show at a time. I want to knit you a sweater. I want to write you a love letter. I want to make you feel free.
I offered to take you to Madrones for a fortune cookie and some Spanish music. Throw my troubles out the door I don’t need them anymore. Because tonight ill be staying here with you.
jlhyman1 posted 03:42 PM Jun. 12th
6/12/09
Nopa, nopa, rope a dopa.
Can’t find a place I’d rather mopa.
Can’t find a place I’d rather be than in nopa nopa sipping tea.
Lived in Sunset, Noe, Mission, North Beach, Bernal,
can’t find a place much more communal.
Like Missy Muffet this place is right,
Because I don’t have to be wrapped all that tight.
It’s an acronym that’s sorta bumpy
A neighborhood at night where timid get jumpy
It’s a small place upon the map
Sometimes too loud to take a nap.
There’s people here, good friends for sure
That make me glad I’ve settled here.
We’ll sit in Abir and drink caffeine
We’ll spend the day upon the scene.
I didn’t have a plan in mind,
When I moved to nopa in my marriage decline.
And NOPA, dear, NOPA, took me in.
It’s got fog and heat and dark of night, there’s an art walk that’s
quite a sight.
We’ve got food, drink, coffee and cops, every café has laptops.
Peg-leg fixies skid down the street, many girls I’d like to meet.
I’ve done my Dr Suess, odd ball rhyming thing way too long,
If my voice weren’t so flat I’d sing this song and
I’d name it for where I belong -
I’d title it, NOPA.
Mike
Mike posted 01:32 PM Jun. 12th
Dear Divisadero Street,
You run right down the middle of my hood, your name means division; yet you bring us together. You are the center, the glue that holds the Panhandle to the Western Addition, whatever the name, I do love you so. We have broken up a few times, I have run away to some other trendy street, to try to find the excitement and thrill of a new thing, but I always come back. You are my tried and true. Children and old folks gather at game night at On the Corner, bikers scurry into Mojo, and my neighbors gather at the Farmers Market on Sunday morning to talk about politics, passions or pluots. I stroll down you for Art walk and see the changes happening- the old Both\And Club where Miles and George Duke and Janis once held it down, which was once Reverend Randy's pot club and now will be boxing gym, for our neighbors to go and work out the frustration of Depression 2.0. Still, through a lousy economy, you are true, my sweet Divisadero Street, holding onto Cafe Abir, Bean Bag, Health Haven and Club Waziema and MiniBar, the Independent, the hopeful future for the Harding and the comic and game stores. You are home to hipsters, jazz nerds, students, children, gray hairs, laptop geeks, families, churches, punks, and barbershops. You may change and grow, as the neighborhood cannot decide on a name, Divisadero runs through the center of it all, carving a line through the middle of our city. The heartline that captures it all. Oh Dear Divisadero, You are a street with a past, and a future.I love you so.
ellynmental posted 10:18 AM Jun. 12th
Nopa Love
To know Nopa is to love Nopa for all who enter - a child's laugh, a dogs wagging tail readily awaits you here at City center. Where Architectural details are as different as the faces, with no two the same from 1000 different places. Every crack on the ground tells
it's own special story, from the wild old past to the new days of glory. To know it is to love the ocean's winds on your window, to walk at night; enjoy the scene or ride a bike. Teens with hoods strut by with a swagger, mom jogs right past listening to Mick Jagger - an old man remembers what was there before the dog grooming place and the organic grocery store. To know is to love cherry blossoms at your toes, fog horns in the morning let the Nopa Love flow.
kip posted 02:41 PM Jun. 10th









