Michael Mina's Clock Bar

It was only a matter of time before the following two things happened: Hotel bars got a new lease on life, and high-end cocktails went mainstream. With the opening of Michael Mina's Clock Bar, located in the Westin St. Francis, across the lobby from his eponymous restaurant, that time has come. Of all the city's recently opened hotel bars (Bar Norcini in the Villa Florence, Bar 888 at the InterContinental, the bar area of Level 111 in the JW Marriott), Clock Bar is the fairest. Its swanky, low-ceilinged intimacy and midcentury style are illuminated by central pillars that cast a warm glow on the lounge, adorned with beautiful quilted leather banquettes. It's easy to imagine a secret rendezvous here. (In fact, the bar is named after the clock in the hotel lobby that has been a meeting spot for San Franciscans since 1907).

Marco Dionysos was brought in as head bartender—a boon for any drinking establishment in San Francisco. He's a familiar face on the SF bar scene, having worked at Absinthe, the Starlight Room and Tres Agaves, but his experience at Clock Bar differs from those other gigs in one significant way. "The [Michael Mina] kitchen makes me cocktail ingredients from scratch," says Dionysos. That means his fruit purées and juices are freshly made. Instead of commercial grenadine, he uses a hibiscus, pomegranate and vanilla matrix, sweetened with agave, created especially for the bar. "To have access to the Michael Mina kitchen has been amazing," he says. "Their pantry has every spice I could think of. I ask for peppercorns, and they let me choose from three different types."

The cocktail menu here leans on such classics as Negronis (Dionysos' favorite), daiquiris and Aviations; spirit geeks will find more obscure things like Allspice Dram, Velvet Falernum and crème de violette on the menu too. In addition to cocktails and spirits, 300 wines are on offer—a list cultivated by Michael Mina sommelier Rajat Parr.

Though you'll find drinks presented with similar flourishes at other places around town, the snacks on hand are hardly typical "bar food": tuna tartare is mixed in front of you, popcorn is tossed with black truffle and corn dogs are made with lobster (all Mina signatures). Larger items include a soft-shell-crab po'boy on brioche, and a lamb-tenderloin sandwich with harissa aïoli.

Mina's empire began in SF, but he's gone on to open 13 more restaurants across the country, from Scottsdale to Atlantic City. Clock Bar is only his second venture here in town, and it's clearly influenced by the cocktail scene that blossomed in our fair city while Mina was working on projects farther afield. "I remember when seeing a cocktail menu at a bar was unusual," Dionysos says. "Now every major hotel chain is jumping on the bandwagon." Coming soon: A Chartreuse swizzle at every Motel 6.

CLOCK BAR 335 Powell St., 415-397-9222