When not one but two of my most trusted food loving colleagues mentioned Lers Ros to me a few weeks back, I made a mental note. The nine-month old restaurant was lavishly praised by Patricia Unterman just before Christmas, then written about again in the SF Weekly in late March. So that means I'm a little late coming to the party, but also that chances are good that despite all the attention this little Tenderloin Thai restaurant has received, you may still have never heard of it.

This would be a shame, because everyone should know about a great, authentic Thai restaurant in San Francisco that is open until 2 a.m. EVERY SINGLE DAY. Every single good eater in this city should know the glory of their pork larb, shot through with a generous amount of fish sauce, chilies and fresh mint, so spicy it'll leave your lips burning. You should probably also know about their Rad Nah, flat rice noodles topped with a thin, savory gravy and lengths of Chinese broccoli, which is the thing to order the next time you're feeling sick or vulnerable. And who knows, maybe one of these nights, round about 1:30 a.m., you'll suddenly have an intense craving for Pla Kra Pong Nuang Manow—steamed sea bass showered with fresh chilies and lime juice (number 112). Now you know where to go.

If the weather holds, it's good to know that you can also get Thai iced tea and shave ice.