If you're here, you've already found the recipe for chefs Nicolaus Balla and Courtney Burns' smoked potatoes at Bar Tartine in the February issue of 7x7 ("Hot Potatoes," p. 76). But they're not complete without this umami-rich vinaigrette and mayonnaise. Enjoy!

Black garlic vinaigrette

8 dried shiitake mushrooms

2 cups rice wine vinegar

¼ cup black garlic cloves (available at grocery stores or Asian markets) or roasted garlic cloves

4 fresh garlic cloves

1 tablespoon brown sugar

1 tablespoon kosher salt

2 tablespoons grapeseed oil

1.    In a small saucepan, combine the mushrooms and the vinegar, and simmer over low heat until the vinegar becomes fragrant with mushroom aroma, about 1 hour.
2.    Remove from the heat and cool to room temperature.
3.    With your hands, squeeze the extra vinegar from the mushrooms back into the pan. Save the mushrooms for another use.
4.    In a blender or food processor, purée the vinegar with the black garlic or roasted garlic, fresh garlic, brown sugar, kosher salt, and oil.
5.    Transfer to a container and refrigerate for up to 1 month.

Ramp mayonnaise

2 egg yolks

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1 tablespoon lemon juice

½ cup fermented ramp greens, drained; or grilled scallions

1 teaspoon fresh ground peppercorns

1 cup grapeseed oil

1.    Chill the food processor bowl and blade in the freezer for at least 15 minutes, and make sure all the ingredients are cold. This will help the mayonnaise hold its emulsion.
2.    Combine the egg yolks, kosher salt, lemon juice, ramps or grilled scallions, and pepper, and process until the ingredients are incorporated, about 1 minute.
3.    With the food processor running, slowly drizzle in the oil until the mayonnaise is quite thick, about 30 seconds.
4.    Transfer to a container and refrigerate for up to 3 days.