(Courtesy of Beer Bar/Bar X)
A Modern Guide to Salt Lake City: Mormon Country Lets Loose With a Booming Bar + Restaurant Scene
23 January 2017
Powderhounds will feel at home at one of SLC's 14 nearby ski resorts, which get steady snow as late as April, and off-the-slopes diversions abound both in the city center and its neighboring communities. So pack your snow jacket, hop a direct flight from OAK or SFO to Salt Lake in less time than it would take you to drive to Tahoe, and prepare to forget everything you thought you knew about this ideal mountain getaway.
(Courtesy of Finca)
Finca
With checkered flooring and delicate chandeliers, Finca may not scream contemporary Spanish tapas with its decor, but each dish manages to combine European-inflected flavors without overwhelming the palate. Nibble from pintxos ranging from a white anchovy boquerone to a smoked trout mousse, or live large and order off the platos grandes menu, where shareable options include a loaded paella and a juicy 24-ounce Niman Ranch bone-in rib-eye. The same restaurant group focuses the same attention to detail at varied restaurants around Salt Lake, including beloved Pago, Trestle Tavern, Hub & Spoke Diner, and East Liberty Tap House. // 327 W. 200 S., fincaslc.com
The Copper Onion
This hip downtown hotspot, helmed by former NYC chef and native Utahn Ryan Lowder, brings Big Apple appeal to Salt Lake in dishes showcasing seasonal ingredients from local purveyors. Highlights of the dinner menu include the wagyu beef stroganoff with housemade pappardelle noodles and shareable ricotta dumplings, which you can also snag during a bustling brunch service that includes a Turkish twist on eggs Benedict and the Bloody Bull cocktail, made with beef stock, horseradish, and house pickle juice. // 111 E. Broadway, thecopperonion.com
Provisions
Another heavyweight in the hyperlocal, organic dining scene, this brightly wallpapered spot specializes in small plates, so bring an adventurous appetite and prepare to graze. Attentive but never overbearing service complements a seasonally changing menu that includes bites such as Asian-inspired steamed buns, wood-roasted mushrooms dusted with bonito flakes, and fork-tender pork ribs—don't miss the fluffy spiced beignets for dessert. // 3364 S. 2300 E., slcprovisions.com
Courtesy of Current Fish & Oyster
Current Fish & Oyster
Seafood takes center stage at Current, with the classically prepared dishes highlighting fresh fish from as far as New Orleans, New York, and Monterey. Ambitious eaters can attempt to summit the seafood tower—a formidable combination of oysters, shrimp, mussels, and Maine lobster tail—but the whole branzino and loaded fish stew are also showstoppers. While Utah liquor laws prevent you from sidling up to the restaurant bar (alcohol can't be in view of minors at eating establishments), adults-only Under Current is an ideal place to snag two bar stools, split an order of oysters, and sip an absinthe- or amaro-infused cocktail from a menu of nearly 60 options. // 279 S. 300 E., currentfishandoyster.com; 270 S. 300 E., undercurrentbar.com
Courtesy of Bodega
Bodega/The Rest
Upstairs, expect a backdrop of bullhorn-affixed brick for tacos and whiskey. Downstairs, the experience transforms into a decidedly upscale affair in the vein of 1920s speakeasies, with a real record player—reservations strongly recommended. The low-lit, unabashedly hip surroundings set the scene for expertly crafted cocktails and filling mains such as the order-ahead beer-can chicken, perhaps best enjoyed over a vintage tome or view of the obscure taxidermy.// 331 Main St., bodega331.com
Eva Restaurant/Eva's Bakery
Both named after the chef/owner's great grandmother, Eva Restaurant and Eva's Bakery draw inspiration from their namesake's love for French cooking and high-quality ingredients. Small plates at the main restaurant defy easy definition, at times veering towards comfort food and at others aligning more with Mediterranean flavors. With reclaimed wood and chalkboard menus (plus a hidden backyard patio), the laid-back vibe matches the relaxed presentation of the brick oven–blistered flatbread, stone-fired baker's pies, and creamy shrimp and grits. Over at the bakery, you're welcomed by the smell of fresh bread, which you can purchase by the loaf or savor in a stuffed French toast or croissant sandwich. // 317 S. Main St., evaslc.com; 155 S. Main St., evasbakeryslc.com
The Eating Establishment on Main Street
Recently revamped by the same Ty Burrell–helmed restaurant group that's behind popular SLC watering holes Bar X and Beer Bar, The Eating Establishment is the only place on Park City's Main Street that can serve booze as early as 10am due to a special license, making it an ideal place for a boozy brunch. While a visit before hitting the slopes is ideal, the 40-year-old restaurant is making a name for itself as an aprés-ski destination as well, with housemade ingredients for its cocktails, right down to the ice. // 317 Main St. (Park City
Beer Bar/Bar X
Modern Family fans should swing by these neighboring watering holes if they want an opportunity to get their Phil Dunphy fix—Ty Burrell is among the owners of both establishments, which are connected by an interior door, and is known to swing by on occasion. Start at the high-ceilinged Beer Bar for a sloppy sausage, crispy fries, and a pint or two from the largely local tap and bottle list. Then, sneak next door for a more intimate experience and craft cocktail menu—organized by flavor profile—at Bar X, which originally opened in 1933, the year Prohibition was repealed. // 161 E. 200 S.; 155 E. 200 St., beerbarslc.com
Good Grammar
This self-described "speak E-Z" offers affordable food options for lunch and dinner, with hearty sandwiches helping sop up house and classic cocktails and shot-and-beer combos. When the weather warms, you can often find DJs spinning on the outdoor patio and a lively game or three of giant Jenga, but events also abound in the colder months, ranging from movie nights to cocktail education courses. // 69 E. Gallivan Ave., goodgrammar.bar
Epic Brewing
While Utah remains shackled to an antiquated law that caps any draft beer at 4% ABV, Epic bucked tradition when it became the first brewery since Prohibition to brew exclusively high alcohol content suds. Available in 22-ounce bottles, the brews include the exponential series, where beers such as the Big Bad Baptist imperial stout and Elder Brett saison-brett golden ale have some fun with the city's religious leanings. The "tapless taproom" has limited seating and requires a food order, so bring an appetite and sneak in early to steal one of the six bar stools. // 825 State St., epicbrewing.com
The Rose Establishment
It's hard to get hipper than this coffeehouse, where an exposed brick façade, subway tiled interior complete with hanging paper cranes, and picture-perfect espresso drinks make it an Instagrammer's dream. But go beyond the looks, and you'll find a serious respect for the art of coffee and tea. Keep it relatively simple with a nitro coffee, or stretch your taste buds with one of the signature drinks, which utilize ingredients such as mulled wine syrup, lavender bitters, and rosemary and sage tinctures in tea- and coffee-based drinks. The on-site bakery churns out sweet and savory treats, and gluten-free or vegan options are often available. // 235 S. 400 W., theroseestb.com
High West Distillery
Did you know Brigham Young once operated three distilleries? You'll learn the finer points of whiskey production and Utah's booze-laden past on a tour of High West—the first legally licensed distillery in Utah since Prohibition—available at both the distillery's original location in a historic garage in Park City and its new distillery in Wanship. If you'd rather skip the learning and get straight to the consuming, both spots have a solid food menu (the Park City spot is a popular spot for diners, even teetotalers), cocktail list, and tasting menu that includes spirits you can only find at the saloon and distillery. // 703 Park Ave. (Park City); 27649 Old Lincoln Hwy. (Wanship), highwest.com
Keys on Main
Sure, it's touristy, but it's hard to beat the kitschy fun of seeing an unabashedly Mormon pianist gleefully dive into Sir Mix-A-Lot's "Baby Got Back," or his blonde dueling partner crush a Busta Rhymes rap verse without missing a beat. People-watching at its finest, a trip to Keys will likely plunk you amidst plenty of large groups celebrating a special occasion (or a simple escape from the office), but the stiff drinks and accommodating performers equate to a raucous good time you may or may not remember the next morning. Shows start at 9pm, but arrive early if you want to snag a seat. // 242 Main St., keysonmain.com
Beerhive Pub
Craft beer lovers flock to this well-stocked tavern, where the extensive bottled beer list notes which suds are from Utah so you can show some local love. Order from more than 200 options and keep your pint or bottle chilled on the frosted bar rail. A game room in the back, complete with a pair of pool tables, offers plenty of diversions while you throw one—or three—back. // 128 S. Main St., facebook.com/Beerhive-Pub-163241570361229/
Temple Square
Even those who don't count themselves among the Latter Day Saints will find Temple Square's impressive architecture worth a stroll. The 10-acre property can be explored on a free tour, which is the only way you can see points of interest like the star-studded dome of the rotunda at the North Visitors' Center, where you'll also find an 11-foot statue of Jesus. Plan your visit to coincide with a Wednesday or Thursday night performance by the famous Mormon Tabernacle Choir, complemented by hand bells or an 11,623-pipe organ. // 50 N. Temple, templesquare.com
Ski Utah
One of the main reasons to head to Salt Lake is its proximity to prime skiing and snowboarding. You can find 14 resorts in seven different areas, most less than an hour away from the airport, meaning you can fly into SLC and be on the slopes before those suckers stuck in Tahoe traffic even strap on their skis. For old-school charm, try Brighton, which has been operating for 80 years this season. If big-time snow is your passion, Alta's Cottonwood Canyons are one of the snowiest places on earth, averaging 551 inches annually. Snow often falls until April around SLC, so you can ski well into spring, and if you sign up for the Ski Utah mobile app, you'll receive an alert on heavy powder days. See 7x7's guide to Utah's best spots for powder here.// skiutah.com
Utah Museum of Contemporary Art
As Utah's only contemporary art museum, UMOCA manages to showcase boundary-pushing works in an intimate setting. The small size means you can stroll the grounds without feeling overwhelmed, and the venue also plays host to film exhibits and work from local artists. On February 3, stop by for a museum-wide opening reception for six new exhibitions, ranging from an examination of violence and man-made atrocities to a photographic exploration of homelessness titled "Only God Can Judge Me," after the neck tattoo of one of the subjects. Closed Sunday and Monday but open late on Fridays, the museum earns bonus points for free entry (although a $5 donation is suggested). For an extra dose of art, join the Salt Lake Gallery Stroll the third Friday of each month, when galleries across Salt Lake are open to the public and often offer the opportunity to mingle with the artists. // 20 S. West Temple, utahmoca.org; gallerystroll.org
Urban Lounge
If the boom in bars and pubs is an indication of Salt Lake's thirst for nightlife, Urban Lounge solidifies the idea that the city truly comes alive once the sun goes down. The concert venue features nightly live performances, ranging from comedy nights helmed by local comedians, to DJ dance sets, to visits from indie darlings such as The Album Leaf, Clap Your Hands Say Yeah, and Why? In business for more than 15 years, the 21+ venue continues to draw big names into a space that's cozy without feeling crowded. // 241 S. 500 E., theurbanloungeslc.com
Ensign Peak Hiking Trail
At more than 4,200 feet in elevation and surrounded by the Wasatch Range, Salt Lake serves up plenty of challenges for seasoned hikers. But located about 15 minutes north of the city center, the easy one-mile Ensign Peak trail rewards visitors with fantastic views without all that huffing and puffing. Time your climb with sundown, and you'll see Salt Lake City sprawled out below and tinged in pinks and purples, including the capitol building and the Great Salt Lake in the distance to the northwest. // Ensign Peak Trailhead, utah.com/hiking/ensign-peak
Sundance Film Festival
Started by Robert Redford back in 1978, Sundance quickly evolved from under-the-radar fest into the place for movie stars looking for some indie cred or to prove their chops. More than 45,000 people descend on Park City and surrounding towns every January to get a sneak preview of the buzziest films slated to hit big screens later in the year, and past festival standouts—ranging from 2015's horror film The Witch to last year's slavery drama The Birth of a Nation—often showcase the best in independent filmmaking. // Various locations, sundance.org.
The Green Ant
Mid-century modern furniture buffs flock to this store, where you can find vintage pieces in pristine condition. With the constantly rotating inventory, it's worth popping in to see if that coveted Saarinen, Eames, or Danish modern piece has made its way through the doors, although smaller but equally striking items ranging from vintage motorcycle helmets to night lights are available if you aren't quite ready to splurge. Don't miss resident bulldog Hana, who can frequently be found lounging around the shop. // 179 E. Broadway, thegreenant.com
Fice
Part art gallery, part hip boutique, Fice combines off-beat art, cult sneakers, and a small selection of apparel into a one-stop-shop for upping your street cred. The mural-adorned exterior makes it hard to miss this best place in Salt Lake for coveted Nikes, Jordans, and Asics, with only a few pairs available in each size and style to make sure every other kid on the block isn't sporting your new kicks. // 160 E. 200 S., ficegallery.com
The Stockist
This independent boutique stocks lesser-known labels and well-made separates in on-trend cuts for both men and women. In addition to supersoft Richer Poorer tees, rubber-soled Native Shoes, and insulated outerwear from Snowpepak, you can stock up on body products from Aesop and delicate handcrafted necklaces from SLC's own Collarbone Jewelry. // 875 900 S., thestockistshop.com
Ken Sanders Rare Books
Tomes seem to cover every square inch of space at this purveyor of rare and gently loved books, including an outdoor bookshelf. It's not uncommon to find a signed or first-edition novel hiding amongst the shelves of nearly 100,000 books. The small space also hosts author readings and book signings, and Antiques Roadshow watchers may recognize owner Ken Sanders from the PBS series, where he frequently appears as an appraiser. // 268 S. 200 E., kensandersbooks.com
Koo de Ker
Located off the main drag, this tucked-away women's boutique is your best bet for airy tops, cozy sweaters, and other feminine pieces. Owner Kyong An plays with proportion and fit for flattering finds, including oversized cardigans and tunics, ruffled blouses, and pencil skirts. // 1037 E. 900 S., koodeker.com
Kimpton Hotel Monaco
Although the hotel no longer hands out goldfish in fish bowls to guests upon check-in, there are still plenty of quirky touches at this boutique hotel. The downstairs lobby area features Jenga and a wall-sized Scrabble, and each room comes equipped with a yoga mat in case you want to work some downward dog into your stay—with daily wine receptions and evening nightcap pairings to help loosen you up. Onsite restaurant Bambara, located in a historic bank lobby, dishes out elevated bistro fare (don't miss the blue-cheese potato chips or shrimp and pork belly fry for weekend brunch), and The Vault, a 35-seat bar and lounge, serves as an ideal spot to wind down the night before heading upstairs to bed. // 15 W 200 S., monaco-saltlakecity.com
Snowbasin ResortImage by Kristen Haney
Less than an hour north of Salt Lake City proper, Ogden may not get the same buzz as well-touristed Park City, but its under-the-radar status means less competition for some of the best powder in the area. Throw in a brand new distillery, inventive brewery, and opportunity for unparalleled backcountry skiing, and this on-the-cusp town is poised to become the Salt Lake City secret you won't want to share.
Snowbasin, Powder Mountain, and Nordic Valley
These three are the area's main ski resorts, and they each offer different appeal. Snowbasin Resort is your all-star, with 3,000 skiable acres, 3,000 vertical feet, multiple on-mountain dining options, and a hopping apres-ski live music and cocktail venue. Powder Mountain Resort is where you'll find your hardcore powder buffs and plenty of boarders carving through fresh snowfall. And if you're just getting you snow legs, Nordic Valley is perfect for beginners or people looking to brush up on their chops, and also has the bragging rights of being Utah's largest night skiing destination, with 100-percent of the mountain under lights.
If you're really looking to get off the grid and you've got the skill to traverse backcountry terrain, book a trip with Whisper Ridge Cat Skiing. Explore more than 60,000 acres of private terrain south of Snowbasin, with eight custom Snowcats and one helicopter taking you deep into untouched backcountry. If you really want to live large, book one of the 10 yurts, and you'll have chef-prepared meals, wood-fired hot tubs, and fire pits, plus access to snowshoeing, cross-country skiing, and snowmobiling touring. // 3925 Snow Basin Rd. (Huntsville), snowbasin.com; 6965 E. Powder Mountain Rd. (Eden), powdermountain.com; 3567 Nordic Valley Wy. (Eden), whisperridgeutah.com
Roosters Brewing Company
This beloved downtown mainstay has packed in families since 1995, and the brick walls of the two-story space are covered with memorabilia that speak to the building's 119-year-old history. House-brewed beers are available by the pint or bottle to pair with the can't-miss naughty fries, a towering heap of spuds served with Pepper Jack sauce, Gorgonzola sauce, and Louisiana hot sauce. Continue the onslaught with the aptly named double bypass bacon burger, or lighten things up with fresh Atlantic salmon or a loaded salad. // 253 25th St. (Ogden), roostersbrewingco.com
Hearth on 25th
Ogden's answer to the demand for from-scratch, seasonal dining, Hearth capitalizes on a Tuscan wood-burning oven to expertly cook fish, bake bread, and sear wild game, including Himalayan yak meat. Venture into the wild world of unusual proteins with yak and elk meatballs paired with house-made fresh mozzarella, or keep it traditional with slow food stroganoff highlighting pasta made in house. The cocktail menu veers toward the classics, but still focuses on from-scratch ingredients where possible and hand-cut ice. // 195 25th St. (Ogden), hearth25.com
New World Distillery
Originally born from a passion for agave spirits, New World officially opened its doors on December 10 to a packed house, confirming that Ogden was thirsting for a distillery to call its own. Here, the experimentation is precise, with computer-controlled stills ensuring even the most minute temperature differences remain intentional. This attention to detail extends to the bottles for the gin and tequila, designed by a local artist, and the barrel time devoted to the distillery's clear spirits, which gain greater clarity of flavor by spending about five weeks resting before being bottled, a step rarely taken in the industry. // 4795 E. 2600 N. (Eden), newworlddistillery.com
Talisman Brewery Company
Utah's northernmost brewery also bucked state regulations by launching with bottled beers that packed big flavor—and the alcohol content to match. Opened to the public for a little less than a year, the husband and wife–helmed business offers tours that take visitors behind the scenes of the brewing process, from grain to glass. But even after finally acquiescing to state regulations with a Scottish Ale and Kristal Weizen that happened to ring in under four percent (and can be found on-tap throughout the state), Talisman still maintains a strong fan base with its colorful labels and inspired brews. The unique seasonal brews (blood orange wheat in summer, nut brown ale in fall) are worth picking up when you can find them in-stock, and the Dagda IPA is a year-round pleaser. // 1258 Gibson Ave. (Ogden), talismanbrewingco.com
Kaffe Mercantile
Warm service, free wi-fi, and solid coffee make this tucked-away café a local treasure. The focus is on the local, from the coffee beans from Caffé Ibis to the art on the walls. If you've had dreams of living out your barista fantasy, the adjacent Coffee House Cottage is bookable on Airbnb for up to four guests. // 1221 26thSt. (Ogden), kaffemercantile.com
Ben Lomond Suites
If you don't splurge for one of Whisper Ridge's yurts, consider booking a room at this centrally located hotel, listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Originally constructed in 1927, the building was constructed in the Italian Renaissance Revival style, and rooms still offer old-school charm. Opt for one of the king suites for views of the Wasatch Mountain Range or downtown Ogden's main square (particularly magical during the holidays, when a Christmas village lights up the park). // 2510 Washington Blvd. (Ogden), benlomondsuites.com