Courtesy of Barnett Vineyards
A Scenic Guide to Napa Valley's Mountaintop Tasting Rooms
01 February 2017
(Courtesy of Hess Collection)
Just a few miles north of downtown Napa, Mt. Veeder is perfectly situated between the Napa and Sonoma valleys. The coolest of the four mountain appellations, temperatures are fairly moderate, resulting in a long growing season. The vines struggle to prosper in the rocky, clay soil that's been pushed up the mountain by tectonic plate movement, but those that do survive, produce mostly high quality, super concentrated, fruit-driven reds.
In order to soften the larger-than-life tannins and flavors typical of Mount Veeder juice, Progeny(1032 Mt. Veeder Rd., Napa) implements an extended age and barrel program, aging their flagship cabernet sauvignon for six long years. The ultra-scenic drive over rolling hills is worth a visit to this hilltop winery alone, plus they will debut a brand new hospitality center later this year.
Across the way, Hess Collection(4411 Redwood Rd., Napa) takes a particularly artful approach to vino: Hess' three-story contemporary art museum showcases modern artworks from all over the world, collected by proprietor Donald Hess over the past 40 years. Order up the Taste of Mount Veeder flight, and then ask for a splash of a few of their hard-to-find varietals, including albariño, charbono, and orange muscat.
Get a hands-on cabernet blending lesson in the cellar of family-run Fontanella(1721 Partrick Rd., Napa), where you might get inspired to go home with your own blending kit; the winery will then produce, bottle, and custom label your unique blend.
On your tour of Mayacamas' original stone winery (1155 Lokoya Rd., Napa), built in 1898, stop to admire the large-format casks used for extended aging in the red cellar, dating back to the 1920s. Enjoy a private tasting of their classic, Old World–style wines, both new and library vintages.
(Courtesy of CADE Estate)
High above the fog line, Howell Mountain looks right over the town of St. Helena, where fruit basks in high temperatures by day, before cooling off significantly at night, preventing the grapes from over baking. The varying temps, plus volcanic and iron-rich clay soils, result in structured red wines with complex aromas and beautiful, intense color.
Howell Mountain hillside vineyards are best explored in an open-air Jeep vineyard tour at Cimarossa (1185 Friesen Dr., Angwin), where, in addition to wine, you can sample Tuscan olive oil produced from the property's 1,200 olive trees.
The modern, minimalist, and sustainable estate at CADE (360 Howell Mountain S., Angwin) is sure to impress both architecture buffs and environmentalists. Wine flights come with a side of panoramic views from both the outside patio and the tasting room's picture window.
We've seen a lot of wine caves, but nothing quite like the massive underground winery at Arkenstone (335 West Ln., Angwin). While you won't find many estate whites at these mountain wineries, owner Susan Krausz will start you off with a serious sauvignon blanc that's complex, creamy, and aged Bordeaux-style.
Get an authentic, Old Napa experience at Summit Lake Vineyards(2000 Summit Lake Dr., Angwin) and sip wine inside the family home of the Brakesmans—who were among the earliest families to make wine here beginning in 1971—they have great stories to share around the kitchen table.
For a similar backyard Wine Country vibe, make an appointment at Red Cap Vineyards(891 Ponderosa Dr., Angwin), and spend an hour or two relaxing with owners Tom and Desiree Altemus (and their loveable dog Roscoe) on the house's large back deck.
(Courtesy of Fantesca)
Across the valley from Howell Mountain, Spring Mountain watches over the west side of St. Helena, where temps are much less variable and vines face a challenge in the rocky, infertile soil. Like Mt. Veeder, Spring Mountain wines are often fruit forward, but feature much softer, luscious tannins for easier sipping.
Depending on the weather, you can taste the portfolio of wines at Barnett Vineyards(4070 Spring Mountain Rd., St. Helena) in a candle-lit corner of the cave or above the fog on their top-of-the-world lookout over Napa Valley. If you're not traditionally a merlot fan, their Spring Mountain production might just change your mind.
Fantesca(2920 Spring Mountain Rd., St. Helena) focuses on curating incredible, luxury experiences for its wine club members, but newbies can still get a taste of the good life. Sample wine from renowned winemaker Heidi Barrett in the working cave, and take a stroll along a romantic hillside path that presents interminable vineyard views.
Spring Mountain's newest tasting room, Lokoya Winery(3787 Spring Mountain Rd., St. Helena), is a gorgeous, Gothic-style stone fortress with cathedral windows and cozy fireplaces. Terroir tastings compare single-vineyard cabernet sauvignon sourced from all four Napa Valley mountain appellations.
It's a long, windy, and somewhat precarious drive up to Cain(3800 Langtry Rd., St. Helena), but you'll be rewarded with 360-degree sloping vineyard views and, of course, wine. Splurge for the educational vineyard walk and you'll work up even more appreciation for the three glasses of vino that follow, including the Cain Cuvee, an unconventional red blend of juice from multiple vineyards and two back-to-back vintages.
We suggest booking the Summit Experience at Pride Mountain Vineyards(3000 Summit Trail, Santa Rosa)—or Summit Ranch, as it's known by the locals—for a private, behind-the-scenes tour and intimate tasting in the fully-furnished cave. You can even bring a picnic lunch to enjoy afterwards among the ruins of the property's original winery, built in 1890 and destroyed by fire during prohibition.
(Courtesy of Schramsberg)
The farthest north of the four mountain appellations, overlooking Calistoga, Diamond Mountain receives the most affection from the sun, though it's still moderately cooler than the valley floor. The mountain's rocky, volcanic soil stresses the vines, making them work overtime—but it's worth it for the resulting big, bold and structured reds, best poured after a lengthy stay in your cellar.
Like most of Diamond Mountain, it's all about cabernet sauvignon at Von Strasser(1510 Diamond Mountain Rd., Calistoga). Taste a selection of both New- and Old World–style cab in the petite, no frills tasting room, and don't leave without asking for a sampling of the grüner veltliner, a dry white wine that grows almost exclusively in Austria.
Next door, you'll find Reverie(1520 Diamond Mountain Rd., Calistoga), where tastings can take place beneath the branches of a mystical redwood grove. Cabernet franc is what they're known for, but look for a few fun and rare varietals.
The best bubbly in Napa Valley can be found at Schramsberg(1400 Schramsberg Rd., Calistoga), which has been poured at prestigious White House functions since the short-lived Nixon administration. Walk through the historic, 125-year-old caves, get a lesson in riddling, and sip the sparkling nectar of the gods.