From her long brunette tresses to her high wedge heels, Erica Tanov is the epitome of cool—effortless, authentic cool.

Her innate sense of style and singular, creative way of looking at the world are integral to the longevity of her 35-year-old lifestyle label. Every dress, sweater, chemise, pillow, throw and table linen Tanov designs is covetable, drenched in an irresistible secret sauce blending simple silhouettes, standout details, and rich natural materials.

Imperfection also defines the Erica Tanov aesthetic. It’s something the designer happily embraces: “I don’t really like anything too perfect. To create that ease or imperfection really takes thought, to create the feeling ‘that just happened,'” she explains. “Sometimes it does just happen, but often there is an art to creating that, and that’s what I like to do.”

The brand’s laid-back luxury is also informed by Tanov’s West Coast roots. Born in Walnut Creek, raised in Piedmont ,and a Berkeley resident since the ’90s, Tanov is a Northern Cali girl through and through.

Mother Nature and her magical landscapes, textures and colors serve as the designer’s constant muse. This love of the outdoors also inspired her personal and brand mantra: “Find beauty every day.” Not to mention her book, Design by Nature, showcases creative ways to layer elements of nature into lived-in spaces.

While Tanov’s design chops are undeniably golden, staying relevant for decades in an ever-changing, often volatile retail landscape is no easy feat for any small business. The Parsons School of Design alum and her lean, formidable team have survived and thrived. All hail ET’s devoted customer base—including Gen Xers and their Gen Z daughters—who appreciate the versatility and timelessness of the designs, especially the brand’s clothing essentials.

The quintessential essential? Lola, a body-skimming, silk slip dress cut on the bias and French-seamed with vintage detailing. It debuted in 1992 and has fans like Madonna and Julianne Moore. Recently, one Carrie Bradshaw rocked an alabaster version on Max’s And Just Like That. (SJP slayed, naturally.)

It’s fitting that a slip became the garment Tanov is most known for. After all, her fledgling label began as a line of lingerie. It was New York City, circa 1990, a couple of years after Tanov graduated from Parsons and made the decision to leave her job with designer Rebecca Moses. Fearless, disillusioned with the fashion industry and a little naïve, Tanov was ready to move on. To what, she was unsure.

While working various gigs to pay the bills, Tanov started sewing in her free time. “It was purely for fun, no motive of starting my own business,” she demurs. The petite designer has always expressed herself through fashion and began sewing her own clothes during middle school because she refused to shop in the kids’ department.

“I’ve always been a collector. I’d go to flea markets and collect vintage lingerie and pajamas. So, when I started sewing and making my own patterns for bras, boxers, tap pants, and chemises, they were inspired by the things I collected. I looked at how they were sewn and the craftsmanship,” Tanov remembers. “I made mine in linen, which I had never seen. I thought the pieces were really sweet and decided, you know what, I’m going to take these around to some stores.”

Long story short, orders arrived via the fax machine on Tanov’s studio-apartment floor. Bendel’s and Barneys were in. “These were huge orders so, I thought, I guess this is what I’m doing,” Tanov says.

She quickly hooked up with a New York showroom (selling is her least favorite part) and, voila, she was back in the fashion biz. “But I was determined to do things differently. I wasn’t going to do the shows, give away things to the famous when they’re the ones who can afford it, etc.,” she says.

Tanov has been running her label her way ever since. She moved back to Berkeley in 1994 to be near family and start one of her own—and to be closer to the nature she desperately missed.

After all these years, Tanov is thrilled Lola remains relevant “especially in a world consumed by fleeting trends and fast fashion.” The signature slip dress and her sisters—including silk camisoles, cotton button-ups, charmeuse PJ pants, Pima cotton cardigans, and wide-leg denim and stretch-canvas trousers—make up the core of the brand’s clothing mix. They’re regularly updated in limited-edition hues and fabrics.

Fresh sartorial and home collections launch according to Tanov’s creative clock. In recent months, her clock has been working overtime, as a steady stream of capsules and collaborations have flowed. Among them: Mexico City–inspired La Condesa, ET x Studio Ahead, and ET x artist Emily Payne.

Collaborating with other artists is Tanov’s jam. “It opens my insular world to new ideas,” she says. “I like the exchange and excitement of working together and seeing what comes from that. I love designing my own prints, as well. But to me, it’s more interesting to bring in another artist’s work and be inspired by that.”

Ready to experience the brand in real life? Head to Berkeley, the center of Erica Tanov’s universe. It’s where she lives with her husband (and visiting adult children) and is home to her two brick-and-mortar stores.

The clothing boutique has been a cherished staple of the Fourth Street retail district since 1998. Along with Tanov’s collections, a smattering of accessories, jewelry, home objects, and art from other not-seen-everywhere brands round out the offerings. Everything in the store is chosen by Tanov herself. Shopping here is all about delight and discovery.

Just around the corner onFifth Street sits Tanov’s stunning 3,600-square-foot design studio-cum-showroom-cum-event space. Opened earlier this year, the multi-level Italianate Victorian building (built in 1878 as a private residence) presents the designer’s complete vision of relaxed luxury. (Note: Visits here require appointments.)

Set up like a real-life home, each beautifully appointed room is a shopable showcase featuring the brand’s home goods and furnishings, as well as a mix of vintage rugs, modern décor, and spectacular antiques curated by Tanov. “I wanted a place to bring everything together and have events—whether musical events, artist talks, dinners, lunches, you name it. It’s just a place for doing everything I love with people I love,” she gushes.

// The boutique is located at 1827 Fourth St. (Berkeley). The studio/showroom is at 1808 Fifth St. (Berkeley), ericatanovcom