(Photography by Sarah Chorey)

First Taste: Izakaya Sushi Ran does Japanese pub grub at its best

30 December 2018

Sushi Ran is a name that rings familiar for most San Franciscans—Sausalito's sushi spot has been beloved for years, worthy of the drive across the bridge.

Now we need only to hop off Muni near the Castro for a taste of this favorite restaurant as its spin-off, Izakaya Sushi Ran, has opened in the former home of Nomica.

Find Izakaya Sushi Ran along Market Street on the edge of the Castro.
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A coat of orange paint emboldens the dining room creating a strong, purposeful design.
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Saunter up to the bar for a choice of cocktails, sake, Japanese beer, and whiskey. Keep an eye out for Awamori cocktails-- a rice-based spirit from Okinawa, the owner's native home.
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Start things off with a bowl of comforting miso soup, with cubes of tofu, shiitake mushrooms, sliced green onion, and wakame seaweed.
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What would a Sushi Ran restaurant be without at least some sushi and sashimi options? Go all in with mouthwatering pieces of tuna, yellowtail, or salmon.
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If rolls are more your speed, choose from one of five options--including this spicy tuna roll with thin slices of cucumbers, ginger, and miso aioli topped with seven different Japanese spices.
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The raw wagyu wrapped bundles of sliced apples, Point Reyes blue cheese, and greens is one of the original Sushi Ran menu staples that's made its way across the bay.
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Another dish from the vegetable portion of the menu, the spinash salad is a dense tower of greens balanced out with sprinkling of both white and black sesame seeds, surrounded by a blended sesame dressing.
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We find ourselves going crazy for the kakiage tempura, a mix of chopped scallops, sweet onions, and cordycep mushrooms.
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Got room for more tempura? The tempura chicken (pictured) with chipotle tartar sauce or shrimp are both satisfying choices.
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If you're looking for a heartier small plate, the miso glazed salmon will do the trick. Other meaty options include a braised pork belly, or BBQ pork back ribs.
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Chef/owner Yoshi Tome has transitioned the space yet again upon the departure of his Nomica chef. The space still feels familiar though, with most of Nomica's decor and design touches left in place. A fresh coat of paint and new lighting, however, lend the new restaurant at 2223 Market Street a more traditional Japanese pub feel. Cozy up at one of the tables or find a place at the sexy red bar for shared food and good conversation.

While a few sushi rolls, sashimi, and appetizer options have migrated over to the Izakaya Sushi Ran menu from its Sausalito sister spot, you'll find a spectrum of new small plates, both hot and cold. Tome has also orchestrated the addition of some items from his home, the Okinawa prefecture in Japan, with the help of Seiji Wakabayashi, Sushi Ran's executive chef who'll manage the izakaya's kitchen.

One thing we're really pumped about? A whole section dedicated to tempura—we're talking tempura shrimp, tori (chicken breast), and kakiage, a distinct combination ofscallop, sweet onion, and cordycep mushrooms, fried into one large rich pancake and dusted with sesame seeds and Japanese spices for a rich umami flavor.

Grab your drinking and snacking hats, we're going to the Japanese pub.

// Izakaya Sushi Ran, 2223 Market St. (Upper Market), izakayasushiran.com

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