(Photography by Sarah Chorey)
First Taste: Wine Comes First at the New Marina Restaurant Parigo
26 September 2017
The trouble with food and wine pairings is that the food always comes first. But sometimes, you just want to drink what you want to drink. What's a wine lover to do?
At Parigo, the Scott Street sophomore project from The Barrel Room's sommelier Sarah Trubnick and chefs Manny Hewitt and Danny Murcia, the pairing experience begins with the wine.
"Manny and I both love wine," says Murcia, who admits "it was a challenge to work backwards, but we were up for it."
The result is a space that can neither be called a wine bar with food nor a restaurant with great wines; instead, Parigo lands somewhere outside the box, serving more than 50 wines by the glass along with full courses—way more than just cheese and olives—that pair accordingly.
Grab a seat at the bright bar for one of more than 50 wines by the glass and order the full experience or just a quick bite.
▲Woodsy accents offset contemporary leather seating for a balanced feel in the narrow space.
▲If you choose to pop in for a quick drink, order up small plates including warm Castelvetrano olives or malt vinegar popcorn with charred scallion sour cream.
▲The 2016 Graci Etna Rosato is an all-day everyday kind of vino.
▲The salmon tartare reads like a deconstructed lox bagel at your favorite Jewish deli: smoked fromage blanc, delicately fried capers, pickled red onion and gratifying crispy potato chips.
▲For each course, choose a complementary or a contrasting wine—each is intended to bring out different aspects of the dish. While complements tend to be the safer choice, the contrasts bring something unexpected. A 2016 Giornata Falanghina, a slightly intimidating orange wine, and an earthy 2014 Clos du Tue-bouef Touraine provide two drastically different options to pair with the salmon tartare.
▲Get ready for something succulent. This hoisin-glazed lamb belly is marked by a spiced carrot puree, a light dollop of black pepper crème fraîche, and slivers of crunchy carrot and fennel. Choices of earthy and sweet wines help the funkiness of the lamb shine.
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Among the menu's standouts is a sesame-crusted steelhead trout with a smear of roasted garlic hummus and juicy marinated tomatoes. The complementary 2013 Tajinaste Listan Blanco brings out the delicate nature of the fish.
▲The veal tenderloin is a meaty, mushroomy affair with truffle cream, peppered spinach, Meyer lemon and herbs. Pair it with the earthy, substantial 2011 Caprili Brunello di Montalcino or the powerful contrasting 2014 Colombier Vacqueyras Blanc.
▲Cozy up on the back patio, with its own bar, communal seating, and an outdoor fire pit.
▲The wine selection includes many limited productions and varietals curated during Trubnick's travels around the world. You can start small with a half bottle or go whole hog with the impressive list of reserve magnums; wines are available at a range of price points as well.
In the kitchen, New American cuisine is executed with interesting twists—think succulent butter-basted chicken with porchetta spices and gravy, or a sesame crusted trout with green apple and avocado mouse—and is designed specifically to pair. Each course comes with a choice of two distinct wine options: one that complements the food, and one that provides contrast, each bringing out different flavors in the dish. Think of it as a choose-your-own-adventure experience.
The interior design, done by Damiaen Hollinga and Kenneth Woodruff (Trubnick's husband), highlights the focus on wine. A long wooden bar draws you in, and a swath of periwinkle provides pop for a wall of bottles. Past the bar, there is a small wine den with and two private tables; beyond that, a patio with contemporary outdoor furnishings, a fire pit and plenty of plants—and, oh yes, another wine bar.
So settle in. Trubnick promises "some unforgettable pairing experiences."
// Parigo, 3232 Scott St. (Marina) parigosf.com
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