Something wonderfully unexpected is afoot at NoPa’s new wine lounge, Gigi’s.

At most wine-centric spots, the menu and decor are French- or Italian- or Northern California–influenced. But this petite Divisadero Street resto-bar found its inspiration a little farther afield, in Vietnam.

That’s the work of executive chef Tu David Phu—a previous Top Chef contestant, former member of the two Michelin-starred Acquerello team, and first-generation Oaklander with deep roots on the Vietnamese island of Phu Quoc. With his first self-helmed restaurant, Phu wanted to honor his parents and his heritage with approachable takes on the flavors he grew up with.

If it’s somehow not the only wine bar in the entire country pairing vibrant Hungarian whites and sparkling Italian reds with banh mi and Saigon-style street food, it’s definitely the most fun. Just ask them about the “chambongs.”

Gigi’s is literally vibrating with warm energy on the evening I wedge myself into the intimate 14-seat bar. The wine, a collection from both well-known and under-the-radar regions curated by consultant Justin Chin and general manager/sommelier Madison Michael, flows freely. Between the bar, the communal tables, and the corner decked out in cozy burgundy banquettes, there’s not a single spot left unoccupied.

Some are here for a glass or two, disparate selections like Austrian riesling and Spanish rose that start at a shockingly affordable $10. Others are snacking on happy hour–appropriate dishes of yuzu-spiked olives and cheese plates laid out with milk bread, jackfruit, and lychee compote. But I’m in it for the whole shebang: dinner, drinks, and maybe a little carousing with wine-blushed strangers.

Indecision leads to tasting both the tartare and ceviche in the menu’s raw department. Michael describes them as two sisters. The tartare—mini cubes of bluefin tuna in fish sauce, chili, and herbs—is the serious one, heady and deep. The ceviche—mini cubes of ora king salmon, pineapple, coconut, and lemongrass vinegar—is the playful one, bright and slightly sweet. Both wear a sculptural rice paper cracker like a bow. Both are delicious, which is no surprise seeing as Phu’s family not only came from the artisanal fish sauce capital of Vietnam, his father was a long-standing local fishmonger.

The Vietnamese Caesar, an East-meets-West mashup of little gem lettuce and silvery anchovy filets dressed with a light fish sauce and shaved parmesan, and the cushiony milk bread crusted with Maldon sea salt and served still piping hot with a scoop of scallion butter are great too. But the showstopper is still to come.

Unless you’ve recently been snacking your way through Saigon, Gigi’s hot dog is the most extraordinary one you’ve probably ever seen: a hearty wagyu weiner in a buttery lobster roll–style bun topped with scrambled egg, pork floss, scallion ginger, and furikake, and drizzled with Kewpie mayo, unagi sauce, and sriracha. It's the party you never knew you’d been waiting your whole life to be invited to, a real humdinger.

Really, everything at Gigi’s, from the menu to the wine list to the interior design by Margaret Ruiz (The Strand), with its grasscloth wall coverings and mid-century-inspired Asian art, has been well thought out and beautifully executed. The staff, some of whom have worked together for years, could not be more welcoming or more knowledgeable about Gigi’s offerings. Even the sweets, which hail from bakery extraordinaire Tarts de Feybesse, are the perfect fit for a chummy little wine lounge with an atypical pedigree.

While Gigi’s doesn’t open until 4pm, their adjacent Bottle Shop turns the lights on at noon. If you’re in the area early, grab a handpicked old or new world favorite to bring home and make a date to return soon. In just the few weeks since opening, Gigi’s has already proven itself to be a neighborhood must.

// Gigi’s wine bar is open 4pm to 9pm and the bottle shop is open noon o 6pm, Wednesday through Sunday; 299 Divisadero St. (NoPa), meetatgigis.com