(Kevin Candland, ©Asian Art Museum of San Francisco)
At Asian Art Museum, 'Hallyu! The Korean Wave' is a fantastic ride for fashion and beauty stans.
09 October
Highly immersive and featuring approximately 300 objects and artworks, Hallyu! (a Chinese term that translates to “Korean wave”) spotlights the entire universe of Ks: K-pop, K-drama, K-cinema, K-fashion, and K-beauty. It also tells the broader story of how South Korea became a contemporary cultural force, beguiling all corners of the planet for the last three decades.
The show originated at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London in 2022 and traveled to Boston’s Museum of Fine Arts last year before landing in SF, where it remains until January 6, 2025.
Whether you’re already part of the K-pop fandom with a covetable light stick collection or you’re not quite tracking (think boy band BTS, girl band Blackpink, Oscar-winning Parasite ,andNetflix’s dystopian survival-thriller series Squid Game), a whirl through the galleries is a rousing treat for all the senses. Of course, that’s all by design.
“By bringing movie sets and interactive experiences into the museum, we invite audiences to jump into the shoes of K-drama and K-pop stars—and their extremely creative fans,” says Yoon-Jee Choi, assistant curator of Korean Art. “Audiences will come away with a renewed appreciation for the artistry underlying their favorite exports, as well as an understanding of the specific cultural circumstances that have catalyzed this social movement over the last 30 years.”
From learning K-pop choreography via an A.I. teacher in the dance challenge room to selfie-ing in front of the meticulously recreated, impossible-to-forget Parasite bathroom, there’s so much fun to be had.
But we’re (mostly) here for the K-fashion and K-beauty.
Sure, there’s fashion, both contemporary and traditional, featured throughout the exhibition; shout out to the giant gallery filled with rockstar mannequins in blinged-out, pattern-mixed stage costumes worn by the likes of Aespa, G-Dragon, and BTS. However, the final gallery is where the fashun and beauty fangirls and fanboys will want to linger.
It's notable that unlike the previous two exhibitions in London and Boston, the curators at Asian Art Museum created a dedicated room to fashion and beauty. Hallyu, after all, has positioned Korea as a global trendsetter in both fields.
Still, K-beauty and K-fashion are not easily defined, Choi says: ‘Right now, pop culture has become a great motivator to figure that out. But a good way to put it…their DNA is a balance of past and present.”
That blending of old and new can be seen in displays throughout the vibrant blue space, which is as serene as the rest of the galleries are stimulating. The mood shift is intentional.
“Ultramarine blue is an upcoming fashion color in high-label brands but, at the same time, it reminds people of the Bay Area, the ocean and underwater waves, which all connect to the theme of a futuristic city,” says Choi. “Additionally, the fashions and costumes face the audience, reminding people of a catwalk.”
And what a catwalk it is. A dozen or so mannequins serve unforgettable looks from various designers, capturing the wide range of contemporary Koreanfashion. Edgy streetwear, hanbok (traditional garments) made modern, and whimsical and gender-neutral ensembles all represent.
A fairytale-esque frock (Fall/Winter 2021) that imagines Edward Scissorhands’ first Christmas is a standout. Designer Minju Kim’s icy blue hanbok silhouette takes a playful turn with a motif of teensy cutout garlands of historic Korean moon jars.
Another over-the-top stunner, arguably the most costume-y of the bunch: “The Girl in Full Bloom” by Miss Sohee. The balloonish, peony-inspired pink-and-gold gown was worn by the queen of flamboyance herself, Miley Cyrus, during a performance on The Graham Norton Show in 2020.
Although the runway takes up the bulk of the elongated gallery, the smaller beauty section is fascinating in its own right. And oh-so relevant—currently, K-beauty, known for its use of high-quality ingredients, is a $92 billion business and growing every year.
One interesting display stars various posters and advertisements devoted to genderless and male-centric cosmetics and skincare, which well-groomed K-pop stars and K-drama actors have been popularizing since the 1970s. And who knew Chanel had a men’s cosmetics line, Boy de Chanel, since 2019?
No doubt, the “10-Step Skincare” display will fascinate those who aspire to the dewy or “glass” skin look first made famous by Korean punims. Funny thing, though, the arduous skincare regimen—starting with oil cleanser and ending with SPF or night cream—is a myth perpetuated by American beauty mags when K-beauty brands started gaining momentum (circa 2014) outside of East Asia.
Fun product design, powerful branding and witty packaging, a huge part of K-beauty’s appeal, is also prominently featured. Let’s be real, who could resist Tonymoly’s sculptural cherry lip balm or a banana hand cream in a vessel that looks good enough to peel? And don’t get us started on KimChi Chic Beauty’s Teddy makeup palette. The bear-shaped 3-D package is so adorable even no-makeup types will buy it just for the cuteness factor.
Choi’s favorite section is devoted to the small accessories (compacts and traditional handcrafted pouches) used during the Joseon dynasty (1392-1910). They're displayed next to modern-day versions from contemporary lifestyle brands clearly inspired by the ancient floral motifs, silk tassels, and pearl-threaded embroidery of their forebears.
In our book, no museum experience is complete without a visit to the institution's store. Shoppers, gird your loins because the buyers truly understood the assignment. It's a veritable wonderland of K-pop merchandise a la light sticks, new K-pop albums, BTS and Blackpink merch, and tchotchkes of all kinds.
The dedicated beauty bar is stuffed with makeup, nail polish, and skincare from Korean brands including Beauty of Joseon, Rom&nd, Cosrx, Tonymoly, Etude, Round Lab, Dr. Jart+, Peripera, Tirtir, and Skinesque. Also featured: cosmetics from SF’s own Christina Choi, a Korean-American makeup artist and entrepreneur. (Don’t sleep on her Luxury Lip Gloss.)
The K-fashion offerings will knock your socks off, too. Highlights include faux fur jackets and accessories in neon pink, green and black; and custom products in collaboration with Darcygom creative director Sung Ju Beth Lee, including a line of colorful low-top sneakers never before sold in the States. Another do not miss—the collection of dresses, skirts, and accessories from The House of Leehwa.
Bottom line, you’ll want to shop ’til you K-drop.
// Asian Art Museum, 200 Larkin (Civic Center), asianart.org