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Achieving amazing fries is no easy feat -- there may be many "pretty good" and even the droopy-sad versions that warrant a meh response, but the top toques that gamely try to master the fry do so by varying spud type, technique and oil selection. Yukon vs. Kennebec potato is but a starting point for this hot debate.
A killer plate of twice cooked fries is a nice surprise, and that method remains a standard with many classic European chefs -- newbie toques may even have to do a twice cooked plate of fries as part of final exams at cooking school (along with a perfect omelet, ramekin of hollandaise, and more). Downtown hotspot The Cavalier is upping the potato fry game with a dish of thrice cooked fries—a perfect salty foil for a rich meaty ribeye. For this dish, Chef Jennifer Puccio draws inspiration from her recent travels around the UK that incorporated marathon days of eating, drinking and culinary thinking--50 brasseries, pubs, and watering holes, oh yes. The results? Best in class.
Thrice Cooked Fries:
Kennebec Potatoes (1 potato per person)
6 cups of rice oil per one potato batch
1. Peel and wash Kennebec potatoes
2. Cut them into uniform logs approximately 1/2 inch squares.
3. Blanch in salted boiling water until tender
4. Chill potatoes on a sheet tray, then freeze.
5. Blanch potatoes in rice oil at 300 degrees until they just start to color.
6. Remove potatoes from oil and increase the oil temperature to 350 degrees.
7. Fry the potatoes until they are golden brown and perfectly crisp. (one at a time)
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