Living outside Rome in the early days of his career, Matt Accarrino fell in love with a local tradition.

In Italy, an aperitivo isn’t just a low ABV spirit like amaro or vermouth, it’s an early evening ritual that “awakens” the appetite with a drink. Italian aperitivi often come in spritz form—spirits mixed with prosecco and sparkling water—accompanied by some small, irresistible snack in the vein of nuts, olives, charcuterie, or cheese.

What's in your bar cart, chef Matt Accarrino? (Adahlia Cole)

Now, Accarrino is adapting the custom for the San Francisco audience. Thursdays through Sundays at Mattina, Accarrino’s casual all-day Italian eatery in Pac Heights, 3pm to 5pm is “appi hour.”

Mattina’s appi hour revolves around the vermouth spritz, a simple drink with more than a dozen expressions to choose from. Accarino hand-picked each label, ranging from light and bright to dark and bitter for its superb craftsmanship, an essential quality in everything Mattina does.

Among them are major brands like Bordiga, Italy’s biggest vermouth producer, and local artisan varieties like Mommenpop, produced by Napa winemaker Samantha Sheehan. Making vermouth is a side hustle for a lot of winemakers, says Accarrino, one that allows them to use up every part of the grape instead of just its juice. “These are not money-making for them, they are passion projects.”

At Mattina, every appi hour vermouth spritz is served with pizza al taglio, a long rectangular slice that comes in flavors like pickled jalapeño, pineapple and prosciutto that are more fun than dogmatically Italian. (7x7 Social Club members get $5 off the combo.)

Vermouth spritzes at Mattina.(Courtesy of @mattinasf)

While SF has had a long love affair with fernet, the growing visibility of aperitivi over the last decade is no accident. As local food and wine industries have become increasingly focused on quality, our palates have expanded, Accarrino muses.“There’s an appreciation for different things,” a desire to “have something not entirely ordinary.” Aperitivi, he believes, are the fuel that’s ignited “all that creativity for cocktail culture,” not the other way around.

At Mattina though, aperitivi aren’t just one ingredient among many in a glass; they’re its heart and soul. And the restaurant, with its sunny, flower-planted parklet and interior piazza-cafe vibe, is the ideal spot for the full Italian-style aperitivo experience.

“I want you to be able to come here and hang out, then eat or to push on to your next adventure,” says Accarrino. “I think people need a little fun right now.”

// 2232 Bush St. (Pac Heights), mattinasf.com

More Spots to Drink Aperitivi in San Francisco

At Sorella, amari flights feature three pours of the 86 bottles that span both the Old World and the New.

(Courtesy of @sorella_sf)

While a wide selection of interesting aperitivi is still a relatively rare find at bars, restaurants, and liquor stores in SF, there are a few. like Mattina, that are evangelists for the herbaceous, often-bitter spirit. For more aperitivo action, check out these local specialists.

Bar 821

The OG of SF’s amaro scene, we came this close to losing Bar 821 in the pandemic. But as of April, the lounge—one of the few in the U.S. dedicated to amari—is back and better than ever. In addition to amaro flights, Bar 821 has more than 200 aperitivo varieties, and a bespoke cocktail program in which patrons can pick a base spirit and flavor profile for a drink that’s perfectly tailored to their tastes. // 821 Divisadero St. (NoPa), instagram.com/bar821

Sorella

Sorella, the casual Italian spin-off from the team behind Michelin two-star Acquerello (1722 Sacramento St., Nob Hill), takes the business of aperitivi seriously. Their amari list includes spirits from virtually every region of Italy, including vintage expressions like a Veneto Jorghe from the 1960s and a Lombardian Ramasotti from the 1970s that are truly one of a kind. Sorella also has more than two dozen labels from elsewhere in Europe and the U.S., including nine from California alone. // 1760 Polk St. (Nob Hill), sorellasf.com

Bar Sprezzatura

The aperitivo list at casually elegant Bar Sprezzatura is extensive and varied, taking up more than a full menu page with amari, vermouths, and other aperitivi (including a dozen vintage expressions from the ‘60s, ‘70s, and ‘80s). Open for lunch, dinner, and that nebulous space in between when aperitivo is both verb and noun, Bar Sprezzatura has plenty of cicchetti (snacks), salumi, formaggi, and apps to awaken your appetite Italian-style. // 1 Maritime Plaza, 300 Clay St. #100 (FiDi), barsprezzatura.com

Anina

Hayes Valley’s Anina may not have the snack portion of the Italian aperitivo tradition, but their amari game is strong. In addition to a few dozen labels, they take a special pride in the spritz, which comes in three forms that enhance, not drown out, the bitter spirit at its core. Anina’s garden patio may not have been made with the Italian aperitivo in mind, but it's still a great place to get the most out of an early evening cocktail. // 482 Hayes St. (Hayes Valley), aninasf.com