French expats Florent Thomas and Simon Mounier are the duo behind Caché, the new Inner Sunset restaurant that is equal parts neighborhood hotspot and hidden gem.
Thomas, the restaurant's director of operations, and Mounier, its chef, first connected over their shared love of San Francisco while working at Le Grande Maison de Bernard Magrez, a two-Michelin-starred restaurant in Bordeaux, France. Each had dreams of someday moving to the City by the Bay.
This March, that dream became a reality when they opened a bistro on 9th Avenue, just a stone’s throw from Golden Gate Park.
The bar at Caché serves espresso drinks, low-ABV cocktails, mocktails, and natural wines.(Joseph Weaver)
The decor is warm and playful with a retro flair. Earthy tones dominate the space, accented by potted plants and whimsical artwork. A narrow, elongated layout enhances the hideaway feel, with a terracotta-tiled bar upfront and a protected outdoor space in back.
Caché's menu features shared plates, light bites, entrees, and desserts inspired by seasonal ingredients, local flavors, and treasured memories—or souvenirs in French. Thomas has created a beverage program to match, with a selection of natural wines from California and Europe, along with non-alcoholic and low-ABV cocktails, including a classic cappelletti spritz and a booze-free sour.
I took the kitchen's advice and tried the signature sea bream sashimi and the surf and turf crudo. The sea bream—first served at a Nightbird pop-up—is a fresh, impressive riff on a whole-fish dish in which the flesh is cut into strips, marinated in orange and lime, then carefully rolled and set back into the body. It's light and elegant with nuanced flavors and a delicate texture.
Surf and Turf Crudo(Joseph Weaver)
While the sea bream pays homage to the ocean, the surf and turf crudo draws inspiration from Mounier's mentor, Pierre Gagnaire. In it, both beef and oysters are meticulously chopped to better absorb a savory soy marinade. In contrast to the sea bream, the flavors are bold and pronounced.
The vegan quinoa green curry offers a taste of Mounier’s travels in Thailand and his memories of Bangkok's Chatuchak Market. Flavorful without the aggressive heat of a traditional curry, the dish is both interesting and approachable. Other signatures included a perfectly pan-fried wing of skate with brown butter sauce and an Ibérico pork dish inspired by the chef's many trips to Spain.
The dessert menu features fun and fanciful items, including a warm cookie topped with salted caramel and sweet almond gelato. I tried the maple buckwheat tart, even though it's a dish that typically wouldn't catch my eye. When Mounier shared that its flavors were inspired by his home in Brittany, I grew curious. The tart is reminiscent of a traditional French galette, filled with maple cream and topped with maple gelato. Surprisingly subtle and not overly sweet, it has a crisp crust that breaks easily into its silky filling and pairs well with a decaf espresso.
Vegan Quinoa Curry(Joseph Weaver)
I'm a sucker for anything French or French-inspired so, for me, a new bistro is an easy sell. What isn't so easy is getting me to come back again. Yet even before I'd left Caché, I was already planning my return—for more than one reason: they were out of the haddock croquettes, I had no room left to sample the cheese plate, and I heard whispers of a pistachio creme bruleé in the works.
There's a difference between creating a menu that's a collection of a chef's favorite dishes and one that has an air of artistry. Caché's is the latter. Like good jazz, the bistro is alive and laid-back—unafraid of trying something new while drawing inspiration from the best of what came before.
// Caché is open for lunch Thursday, Friday, and Monday from 11am to 2pm, brunch on Saturday and Sunday from 10am to 2pm, and dinner Wednesday through Monday starting at 5pm ; 1235 9th Ave (Inner Sunset),cache-sf.com
The maple buckwheat tart is inspired by a French galette.(Joseph Weaver)
