New pizza places keep on appearing, which means we need to go eat their pies and tell you if they’re good, right? Here are the results of our recent pizza tour, because hey, someone’s gotta do it.
Josey Baker Pizza at The Mill
On Monday nights, Josey Baker is proving there’s more than his much-discussed thick-cut toast to order on the menu. Baker's now-weekly pizza night is quite hopping: you can swing by for just a slice ($2.50) or order a whole pie ($20)—and soon, you’ll be able to order your pie ahead of time. The vegetarian toppings change each week (the week with red bell pepper and caramelized onion was particularly savory); there’s talk that a meat topping may be an option soon too. The sourdough crust is a tasty and glorious intersection of where bread and pizza can meet: it’s chewy, with a satisfying texture from the stone-ground whole grain. Huh, would you look at that: it’s actually Baker's country bread dough in a pizza form! Brilliant. And for extra oomph, the crust is given a little brushing of roasted garlic oil, which makes it one you’re gonna want to eat every last bite of, that’s for sure. Mondays starting at 6:00 p.m. until they run out. 736 Divisadero St. at Fulton.
This new Dogpatch pizza shop from Andrew Markoulis and Neal DeNardi is serving a thin-crust pizza that’s SF in style (the dough has a sourdough starter), with some super-fresh toppings (like kale and spinach) from a chef garden they have access to. The White Pie (mozzarella, ricotta, spinach, garlic, olive oil) is harmonious and cheesy-rich, while the Loading Dock (mozzarella, tomato sauce, soppressata, sausage, mushroom, garlic, thyme) lives up to its name—you’ll definitely need a fork and knife for that one. You can get a 12-inch small (averaging $14) or an 18-inch large ($22–$28). While the pizza isn’t necessarily destination-worthy, it’s a good spot to hit if you’re in the 'hood, and they have some tables and a counter where you can perch. And nope, no slices (or beer, yet, although you can bring your pizza to some of the nearby bars). Open Mon–Fri 11:00 a.m.–3:00 p.m. and 5:00 p.m.–9:00 p.m., Sat 12:00 p.m.–10:00 p.m., 2347 3rd St.
Plenty of folks have familiarized themselves with Jeff Krupman’s awesome pop-up pizzas off his FrankenWeber around town, and now he has a permanent home (with a deck oven) in Bernal. The place has a bunch of picnic tables inside (read: communal seating), plus some good wines and beers to make it a party, but you’ll definitely want to come on the later side if little kids running around will stress you out. His pizzas are so delicious, made with a flavorful and naturally leavened dough, market-fresh (or foraged) toppings like nettles and dandelion greens, plus he uses organic and rather fantastic tomatoes for his sauce. The pies are one size, about $15 each. The friendly staff will take good care of you—and get to know their names, because you’ll be back. Open Wed–Sat 5:00 p.m.–10:00 p.m., Sun 1:00 p.m.–9:00 p.m., 3299 Mission St.
This low-key slice shop from Thomas Jividen on 24th Street is serving East Coast–style, cracker-thin slices that are golden and crisp with a small cornicione (the end crust). There are about 10 kinds you can choose from that he'll warm up in the deck oven (think pepperoni, artichoke, white mushroom, and more). The generous slices are $3 for cheese, $4 for any other kind, or you can get a whole pie made ($19 for plain—request extra sauce if you’re a sauce-loving type). The white pie (spinach, mozzarella, ricotta, garlic, Parmesan) is a winner, with a very ample layer of cheese, and the ingredients are obviously placed with care. There are four tables and a counter if you’re eating on premise, and afterward you can cross the street for a cup of coffee from Philz in case you start slipping into a cheese coma. Jersey folks will quickly recognize the magnet on the soda machine. Hours are Tue–Sun 12 p.m.–9:30 p.m., 3104 24th St.
Marcia Gagliardi is the founder of the weekly tablehopper e-column; subscribe and get more food news and gossip at tablehopper.com. Follow her on Twitter: @tablehopper.
